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Its crunchy fried soybeans, chiles and peppercorns, warming spices, MSG, and fermented black beans seemed like such an obvious choice that I couldn’t believe I’d only just thought of it. Next my hand gravitated towards a half-empty jar of chile crisp. Inspired, I reached for yellow miso in the back corner of my fridge - a scoop of the fermented paste, I decided, could add really nice character and salinity. So why not introduce these elements into a cookie dough? I began to realize I enjoy the flavor of peanuts most when they’re matched with bold heat, high salt, funk, and texture. When I thought about my favorite foods with peanuts, it was spicy and savory dishes that came to mind. So with that as my starting point, I looked around my pantry and set out to customize this basic set of ingredients into a peanut butter cookie that even I could love. Despite these differences, all follow the same basic principle: egg, homogenized peanut butter, and sugar can be combined and baked into a deliciously soft and chewy flourless cookie. Some with leavening, some without, some with salt, some without (not to be trusted!), and all with various types and quantities of sugar, peanut butter, and bake times. Their lack of flour made them perfect for my circumstances, so I put aside my feelings and decided it was time to seek the truth.Ĭhef Google, I discovered, has a million and one different variations of this same recipe.

But then I thought about the mythical soft and chewy flourless peanut butter-based cookies I’d heard about over the years. Since I was lacking flour, my options decreased significantly. The only thing that mattered was which ingredients I had (or didn’t have) on hand. However, while stuck at home during the early days of COVID lockdown, I found myself craving cookies - any cookies. In other words, I’m not really a peanut butter cookie person. If forced to rank them, I would declare chocolate chip as the obvious winner, followed by sugar, peanut butter, and oatmeal raisin. In my experience, the who’s-who of American-style cookies has typically included chocolate chip, oatmeal raisin, sugar, and peanut butter.